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2024 Huangshan Mao Feng Green Tea


Humble yet gourmet in its own right, the style of Huangshan Mao Feng gives us a special green tea of excellent craftsmanship without hype — an ancient from a revered terroir with unique attributes.  Mr. Hu's ecologically grown 生态 shēngtài tea yields a  sweetness without bitter astringency a good Huangshan Mao Feng is known for, in addition to the pleasant soy milk texture and fragrance characteristic to the genuine versions.

In one of the valleys southeast of Huangshan park, north of Fuxi town, Mr. Hu lives a life of a solitary man left to his own devices.  In his spacious, disheveled villa he can be found working on calligraphy projects and occasionally hosting friends and family.  A published calligrapher with a handful of accolades, certificates, and titles related to the artform, Mr. Hu prefers to occupy himself with tactile, unmodern things such as this.


An equally Luddite endeavor as calligraphy, Hu also commits himself to another oldworld artform: the craft of his home's tea delicacy, Mao Feng.  Transliterating simply to "hairy tip", the tradename 毛峰 máo fēng throughout China usually signifies a more casual and approachable grade, oftentimes upstaged by a higher grade varietal of more prestige and price tag.  In Southern Anhui, the highest grade of green tea is undoubtedly Taiping Houkui, whose genuine materials that have undergone traditional non-mechanized methods can often fetch staggering, prohibitive prices.  Decidedly the grandpa-styled anthem of the region's everyman — yet able to hold its own to even higher end Houkui — some may be surprised to recall that Huangshan Mao Feng remains one of the ten classic teas of China, a title that ensures proud hands continue its craft.

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We tasted several varieties of Mao Feng harvested from various gardens at different times and eventually settled on this ecologically grown, relatively later-harvested iteration.  While the race for earliest harvests before the Qing Ming festival dominates the domestic green tea market, Huangshan Mao Feng grown at proper elevations will typically fall between the solar terms of Qing Ming (April 5th) and Gu Yu "Grain Rain" (April 20th), and will benefit from less obsessive, hurried treatment.  While there are certainly some teensy bud versions, some Huangshan Mao Feng iterations can be more elongated and strand-like, produced by the time it would take to grow the bud and leaf set out properly.  Our ecologically grown Mao Feng, harvested at 700 meters on April 18th, produced by Mr. Hu is one such tea.  Enjoy a sweet, clear uplifting broth that these leaves impart to a brew, with character and class to boot.

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(3 customer reviews)

3 comments on “2024 Huangshan Mao Feng Green Tea”

  1. This is quite simply my favorite green tea I have ever had. It hits everything I love in a green: bright, sweet, juicy high notes with just enough of a grounding vegetal body to complement and balance the overall experience.

    The liquor itself is deceptively light for the flavors within, and the leaves are beautifully wild but confident in what they have to offer.

    I cannot recommend this tea enough, and the price point makes it an easy decision. Thank you Gus for providing the opportunity to indulge in this remarkable tea.

  2. My new favorite summer green tea for grabbing my glass flask and thermos of hot water to go! So beautiful to watch the dancing leaves and refill all day long wherever I might be.

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