For those into Phoenix Dancong, tea from Wudong Mountain needs no introduction. As the core production area for this style of tea, Wudong and its villages sits at the highest elevations of the area and holds some of the oldest tea trees of the area.

Between the elevations of 1000-1100 meters, brother Jun’s family has been stewarding several old school dancong cultivar varieties for many generations now, one of which being the classic Shui Xian. Considered by some to be the Phoenix Mountains’ oldest cultivar, Wen’s large, mature centenarian+ Shui Xian bushes offers a phoenix dancong experience not easily found.

While officially classified as a separate cultivar than the Shui Xian found in Fujian, some would debate that this Shui Xian stock found in the Phoenix Mountains not only predates, but was an ancestor to the modern day Shui Xian found in the Wuyi Mountains, Zhangping, and Jianyang (considered the birthplace of Fujian Shui Xian). In any case, prestigious Wudong Mountain Shui Xian represents some of the oldest oolong genetics around.

Brother Jun’s Shui Xian bushes are some of the oldest and largest in his tea gardens, and when asked how old they are answers can range from “at least 100-200 years” to “the oldest may be several hundred” — in other words, he doesn’t quite know — a common and acceptable answer from those that have inherited truly old growth tea trees.

The small leaf variety breeds of eastern China are known to have a shorter life span than the large leaf varieties found in their native Southern Yunnan / Golden Triangle areas, and like the centenarian Lao Cong Shui Xian from Wusandi from our partner Mr. Wu, these old bushes are considered by some to be past their prime. Fresh leaf yields start to diminish, and while aroma, minerality, and 枞味 congwei “mossy bush flavor” in the finished tea still persists, the flavor-mouthfeel structure begins to flag, not as consistent in its texture over the session.

Despite this mild “geriatric” aspect, the enjoyment of this tea was worth the investment and has become a favorite amongst friends.